“Thread and Fire: Textiles and Jewellery from the Isles of Indonesia and Timor” by Linda S. McIntosh

Kampuh Songket or Saput Songket. Nobleman’s outer hip cloth, 111 x 178.5 cm, early 20th century, Bali, silk, gold and silver wrapped threads, supplementary weft weave. Scenes from the Marriage of Arjuna epic poem are popular artistic subjects. The h… — Kampuh Songket or Saput Songket. Nobleman’s outer hip cloth, 111 x 178.5 cm, early 20th century, Bali, silk, gold and silver wrapped threads, supplementary weft weave. Scenes from the Marriage of Arjuna epic poem are popular artistic subjects. The hero Arjuna defeats a demon disguised as a wild boar in the top panel of this nobleman’s this nobleman’s hip wrapper. Garuda and Naga decorate the bottom panel. © River Books

THREAD AND FIRE

Textiles and Jewellery
from the Isles of Indonesia and Timor

by Linda S. McIntosh

To be published by River Books (Bangkok, Thailand) | November 2019

Thread and Fire: Textiles and Jewellery from the Isles of Indonesia and Timor showcases over 250 masterpieces from the collection of Francisco Capelo of Lisbon, Portugal. The volume provides a beautifully illustrated and informative journey in the textiles and jewellery of the diverse peoples of Indonesia and how contacts born from centuries-old trade inspired the creation of new and altered examples of handwoven cloth and ornament that served as gifts of exchange and regalia and other symbols of prestige.

The journey begins in Sumatra exploring the history and material culture of both inland and coastal communities before continuing the journey east to Java, Bali, Sumbawa, Borneo, and Sulawesi before delving in the culture of East Nusa Tenggara and Maluku. McIntosh provides ethnographic backgrounds and short histories of the cultures that produced the textiles and jewellery illustrating the book.

The Indonesian textile and jewelry featured in this volume are now part of the permanent collection of Casa Asia-Coleção Francisco Capelo in Lisbon.

Kain Songket Limar. Shawl, 195 x 60 cm, late 19th century, Malay, Bangka Isle, South Sumatra, silk, gold wrapped thread, supplementary weft, weft ikat. Multicoloured weft ikat patterns of lacy tendrils surround vases that were inspired by the Europe… — Kain Songket Limar. Shawl, 195 x 60 cm, late 19th century, Malay, Bangka Isle, South Sumatra, silk, gold wrapped thread, supplementary weft, weft ikat. Multicoloured weft ikat patterns of lacy tendrils surround vases that were inspired by the European fleur de lis and integrated into Mughal art. © River Books

Beti. Man’s wrap, 204 x 85 cm, early 20th century, Atoin Meto, Miomofo of North Central District, West Timor, local and imported cotton, warp ikat. Patterns of frogs, katak, decreasing in size appear to be born from the largest reptile. © River Books

Pua Kombu. Ritual cloth, 228 x 130 cm, early 20th century, Iban, Sarawak, Malaysia, Borneo, handspun cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat, weft twining. The vine pattern or buah berinjan fills the central field. Within the purple vines are red circles ou… — Pua Kombu. Ritual cloth, 228 x 130 cm, early 20th century, Iban, Sarawak, Malaysia, Borneo, handspun cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat, weft twining. The vine pattern or buah berinjan fills the central field. Within the purple vines are red circles outlined in white, which symbolise menacing eyes. © River Books

Tapis Kaca Kuning. Skirt, 107 x 117 cm, 19th century, Paminggir, Lampung, South Sumatra, cotton, silk floss, natural dyes, mirrors, metal wrapped thread, supplementary weft, couching, embroidery, gimping. Mirrors and yellow turmeric dye lend this ce… — Tapis Kaca Kuning. Skirt, 107 x 117 cm, 19th century, Paminggir, Lampung, South Sumatra, cotton, silk floss, natural dyes, mirrors, metal wrapped thread, supplementary weft, couching, embroidery, gimping. Mirrors and yellow turmeric dye lend this ceremonial garment its name. The patterns depict a ceremonial occasion with participants wearing leafy diadems. © River Books

Sarung. Tubular skirt, 195 x 105 cm, early 20th century, Cirebon, North Coast Java, cotton, natural dyes, batik tulis. Some ceremonial garments favoured by the Peranakan Chinese combine auspicious symbols with Western elements. The designs of turtle… — Sarung. Tubular skirt, 195 x 105 cm, early 20th century, Cirebon, North Coast Java, cotton, natural dyes, batik tulis. Some ceremonial garments favoured by the Peranakan Chinese combine auspicious symbols with Western elements. The designs of turtles, shrimps, and other aquatic life give the sarung its name, ganggeng. © River Books

Lafa Dula Pilas. Shawl or hip wrapper, 168 x 84 cm, mid 20th century, Ndao, cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat. The writhing snake motif originates from a myth of origin and is thought to be the inspiration for the flowering scroll design adorning othe… — Lafa Dula Pilas. Shawl or hip wrapper, 168 x 84 cm, mid 20th century, Ndao, cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat. The writhing snake motif originates from a myth of origin and is thought to be the inspiration for the flowering scroll design adorning other textiles woven on Ndao and Rote. The odd number of patterned columns is associated with Ndao. © River Books

Pori Situtu. Shroud and rital textile, 150 x 255 cm, early 20th century, Rongkong, Central Sulawesi, handspun cotton, warp ikat. The central field contains repeating patterns of hooks that symbolise ancestors. © River Books

Gelang Teba. Bracelet, gilt silver, filigree, granulation, Karo Batak, North Sumatra. L: 18 cm. Heavier than those worn by the Karo Batak, this Toba Batak bangle features Islamic style adornment of filigree and granulation. The bangle is also called… — Gelang Teba. Bracelet, gilt silver, filigree, granulation, Karo Batak, North Sumatra. L: 18 cm. Heavier than those worn by the Karo Batak, this Toba Batak bangle features Islamic style adornment of filigree and granulation. The bangle is also called gelang sarung after the numerous spheres attached to its surface. © River Books

Ritie Knei or Keke. Bracelets, silver, filigree, Timor. D: 8 cm and 7 cm. Numerous fused wire coils decorate the cuff on the left. A pair of birds encloses an unadulterated coin. On the right, the bell symbolises a cotton boll. Two birds, perhaps co… — Ritie Knei or Keke. Bracelets, silver, filigree, Timor. D: 8 cm and 7 cm. Numerous fused wire coils decorate the cuff on the left. A pair of birds encloses an unadulterated coin. On the right, the bell symbolises a cotton boll. Two birds, perhaps cockatoos, perch on each side of the boll. © River Books

Lola Lola. Armbands and sacred heirlooms, gold, wood, semi-precious stones, Kulawi and To’ subgroups, Central and South Sulawesi. D: 17,5 cm. A high status woman donned this sacred heirloom during ceremonies. The wood core is wrapped with sheets of … — Lola Lola. Armbands and sacred heirlooms, gold, wood, semi-precious stones, Kulawi and To’ subgroups, Central and South Sulawesi. D: 17,5 cm. A high status woman donned this sacred heirloom during ceremonies. The wood core is wrapped with sheets of gold alloy, and semi-precious stones are embedded along the circumference. © River Books

Linda S. McIntosh

Lao-American Linda S. McIntosh is an independent curator with a special interest in Southeast Asian textiles and their roles in society. Receiving a Master’s of Arts degree in Southeast Asian Studies from the University of Wisconsin-Madison and a doctorate from Simon Fraser University, Canada, she has curated exhibitions in the USA, Laos, and Thailand as well as consulted on one in Singapore.

Her publications include Art of Southeast Asian Textiles: The Tilleke & Gibbins Collection, Carving a Community: the Katu People, Status, Myth, and the Supernatural: Ritual Tai Textiles, and Weaving Paradise: Southeast Asian Textiles and their Creators. She has an essay in the forthcoming catalogue Timor: Totems and Tokens entitled, “Binding Distinctions: Warp Ikat Textiles of Timor.” She has completed the reopening of the Xieng Khouang Provincial Museum in Laos and is currently researching the textile traditions of the Alor Archipelago, Indonesia.

Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post. Art of the Ancestors does not receive a commission should any of our readers purchase the aforementioned book.

Art of the Ancestors is a strictly non-commercial educational platform and has no vested interest in the professional activities of the author listed above. Their opinions are their own.

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“Thread and Fire: Textiles and Jewellery from the Isles of Indonesia and Timor” by Linda S. McIntosh

THREAD AND FIRE

Textiles and Jewelleryfrom the Isles of Indonesia and Timor

by Linda S. McIntosh

Linda S. McIntosh

Art of the Ancestors

Textiles and Jewellery
from the Isles of Indonesia and Timor