Cultural History In Focus | “Custom, Combat, and Ceremony: Java and the Indo-Persian Textile Trade” by Jiri Jakl & Tom Hoogervorst

 

Indian Trade Cloth
Found in Java, Indonesia, made in India
Cotton; block-printed, possibly hand-painted
Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Lee Kip Lee, Singapore
2015.91.14
© Yale University Art Gallery

 
 
 

Custom, Combat, and Ceremony

Java and the Indo-Persian Textile Trade

 

by Jiří Jákl & Tom Hoogervorst

 

This article is generously provided by Jiří Jákl, Tom Hoogervorst, and Bulletin de l'Ecole française d'Extrême-Orient.

 

Mahoot and a warrior on an elephant try to wake up the sleeping giant Kumbhakarna. A relief from the Ramayana series at the Shiva Temple in Prambanana.
Courtesy of subject.

Two servants carrying betel set for their lord, a relief from the Krsnayana story on the Main Temple of Panataran
Courtesy of subject.

 

The sage Mucukunda disturbed from his rest by a demon king, also from the Krsnayana series, on the Main Temple of Panataran.
Courtesy of subject.

 
 

Shoulder Cloth (Kain Geringsing Wayang)
Indonesia, East Bali, Tenganan Pegeringsingan, 19th century
Cotton plain weave, resist-dyed warp and weft (double ikat), with metallic-cotton-thread discontinuous supplementary warp and weft patterning
Gift of Mary F. Kefgen (M.90.22)
© LACMA

Riding Coat
First half 13th century
Attributed to probably Iran
Silk; weft-faced compound twill (samite)
Purchase, Director's Fund and Oscar de la Renta Ltd. Gift, 2008
2008.346a–c
© The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Ritual Weaving (Tampan)
Pasisir, Sumatra, Indonesia | Lampung
Cotton; plain weave, supplementary weft
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.214
© Yale University Art Gallery

Ceremonial Cloth (Elephant Patolu)
Western India, Gujarat, Patan, early 19th century
Resist-dyed silk warp and weft (double ikat) plain weave, metallic-wrapped supplementary weft.
Gift of Mrs. Harry Lenart (M.87.242)
© LACMA


Trade cloth with a painting from the Ramayana epic on one side
Sulawesi
TM-680-1
© Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen

Brocaded Taffeta Jacket
Iran
Safavid
Silk; metallic-wrapped thread
The Textile Museum Collection
Acquired by George Hewitt Myers
3.93
© The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum

Shoulder Cloth
Sumatra, Indonesia
Coastal Malay
Silk
The Textile Museum Collection
Museum Purchase
1961.8.9
© The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum

Textile Fragments
15th–16th century
Attributed to India
Silk; samite
Gift of Michael and Jacqueline Franses, 1993
1993.2a–m
© The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Cover composed of Persian and Mughal textiles
Northern India; Iran
Silk; metallic-wrapped thread
The Textile Museum Collection
Gift of Mrs. Hoffman Philip
1.83
© The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum

Waist Wrapper (Limar)
Made in Muntok, Bangka, Indonesia
Silk and gilded metal thread; weft ikat, supplementary weft
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.287
© Yale University Art Gallery

Kalambi
Kalimantan | Iban
WM-19476
© Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen

Baju Kurung
Aceh
WM-56453
© Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen

Trade Textile (Tapih Sarasa)
India, Coromandel Coast for South Sumatran market, 1750-1800
Mordant- and wax resist-dyed cotton
Costume Council Fund (AC1996.60.1)
© LACMA

 

Colophon

Author | © Jiří Jákl, Tom Hoogervorst
Publication | Bulletin de l'Ecole française d'Extrême-Orient. Tome 103, 2017. pp. 207-235
Year of Publication | 2017

 
Cultural History In Focus, News 15, Articles Archive 3Jiří Jákl and Tom HoogervorstArt of the Ancestors, Steven G. Alpert, Asian Art, Island Southeast Asian Art, Oceanic Art, Asiatica, Ethnographica, Ethnographic Art, Art Collection, Fine Art, Primitive Art, Indonesian Art, Tribal Art, Eyes of the Ancestors, Dr. Reimar Schefold, Cultural History in Focus