Nusantara: Six Centuries of Indonesian Textiles at Yale University Art Gallery

 

Ritual Cloth or Shawl (Bidak, Tutup Jenazah)
Made in Sumatra, possibly Komering
Silk, ramie gilt metal thread; tapestry, supplementary weft
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.139
© Yale University Art Gallery

 
 

Nusantara

Six Centuries of Indonesian Textiles

September 12, 2025  –  January 11, 2026

 

Nusantara: Six Centuries of Indonesian Textiles presents one of Southeast Asia’s most significant artistic accomplishments: woven textiles. Exploring the ancient interisland links found in this culturally diverse maritime region, the exhibition features a wide array of textiles from the 14th to the 20th century drawn from the Yale University Art Gallery’s exceptional holdings—from the batiks of Java to the ikat of Sumba, and from ceremonial cloths and ritual weavings to clothing, shrouds, and architectural hangings. Especially remarkable are several early textiles that are intricately patterned with tie-dyed designs, while select three-dimensional objects, such as sculptures, headgear, and combs, are also included to provide context. Nusantara—from the original name for the Indonesian archipelago—offers a broad overview of the rich imagery and technical mastery of this remarkable art form.

 
 
 
 
 

Indonesian Textiles at the Yale University Art Gallery
Ruth Barnes and Arielle Winnik

Launching in September 2025, Indonesian Textiles at the Yale University Art Gallery is a free, born-digital publication that catalogues the museum’s remarkable collection of approximately 1,200 textiles from maritime Southeast Asia—from the batik textiles of Java to the ikat of Sumba, from ceremonial cloths and ritual weavings to clothing, shrouds, and architectural hangings. Released concurrent with the related exhibition Nusantara: Six Centuries of Indonesian Textiles, the catalogue begins with an introduction that discusses the geography and cultures of Indonesia as well as the history of weaving, materials and techniques, and the cultural meanings of textiles. Catalogue entries are organized by geographic area, with each region introduced by a brief overview. Entries provide full cataloguing data, new photography, and short descriptions of the objects. An appendix of scientific research findings rounds out this important study, which foregrounds exciting new evidence of interisland connections discovered by the authors during their analysis of these complex and culturally significant works.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Exhibition Preview

 

Woman’s Ceremonial Skirt (Tapis)
Made in Sumatra | Lampung
Cotton, silk, and mica; warp-faced plain weave, warp ikat, stem stitch, running stitch embroidery
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.197
© Yale University Art Gallery

Ceremonial Weaving (Papori Tonoling)
Made in Sulawesi | Toraja
Cotton; warp-faced plain weave, warp ikat
Gift of Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus, New York
2017.48.3
© Yale University Art Gallery

Woman's Ceremonial Skirt (Lau Pahudu)
Made in Rende, Sumba
Cotton; supplementary warp, applique, daub
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.142
© Yale University Art Gallery

Woman’s Ceremonial Skirt (Tapis)
Made in Sumatra | Lampung
Cotton and silk; warp ikat, embroidery
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.130
© Yale University Art Gallery

Woman’s Ceremonial Skirt (Tapis)
Made in Sumatra | Lampung
Cotton, silk; ikat, embroidery
Gift of Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus, New York
2017.48.12
© Yale University Art Gallery

Ceremonial Weaving (Tampan)
Made in Lampung, Wai Ratai, Sumatra
Cotton; balanced plain weave, supplementary weft
Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2012.30.63
© Yale University Art Gallery

 
 

Woman’s Ceremonial Skirt (Lawo Butu)
Made in Flores | Ngada
Cotton, glass beads, nassa shells; warp-faced plain weave, warp ikat with bead work
Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2012.30.72
© Yale University Art Gallery

 

Skirt Cloth (Kain Kebat)
Made in Kalimantan, Borneo | Kantu’
Cotton; warp-faced plain weave, warp ikat
Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2012.30.31
© Yale University Art Gallery

 
 
 

Ritual Textile (Pua Sungkit)
Made in Borneo | Iban
Cotton; warp-faced plain weave, supplementary weft-wrapping (sungkit)
Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2012.30.68
© Yale University Art Gallery

 

Waist Wrapper (Sarung)
Made in Sulawesi | Minahasa
Cotton; warp-faced plain weave, warp ikat
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.67
© Yale University Art Gallery

 
 

Ritual Cloth or Shawl (Bidak, Tutup Jenazah)
Made in Sumatra, possibly Komering
Silk, ramie gilt metal thread; tapestry, supplementary weft
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.139
© Yale University Art Gallery

Woman’s Tunic (Halili)
Made in Sulawesi | Palu Toraja
Cotton with sequins and beads; applique, embroidery
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.79
© Yale University Art Gallery

Woman's Ceremonial Skirt (Lau Hada)
Made in East Sumba
Cotton, nassa shells; warp-faced plain weave, applique
Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2012.30.47
© Yale University Art Gallery

Ceremonial Hanging (Tampan Maju)
Made in Sumatra | Lampung
Beads, rattan, shells, and cotton; appliqué
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.143
© Yale University Art Gallery

Headdress (Siga)
Bark cloth with synthetic fabric backing
Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2019.12.390
© Yale University Art Gallery

Man’s Jacket (Baju Singkuap)
Made in Baleh district, Bena tributary, Sut River, Borneo | Iban
Cotton, bark cloth; glass beads
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.22
© Yale University Art Gallery

Pennant with Beaded Figures (Penji)
Made in Sumba
Cotton; beadwork
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.384
© Yale University Art Gallery

Woman's Ceremonial Skirt (Lau Pahudu)
Made in Kanatang, Sumba
Cotton; warp-faced plain weave, supplementary warp
Robert J. Holmgren and Anita E. Spertus Collection, Promised gift of Thomas Jaffe, B.A. 1971
ILE2006.4.391
© Yale University Art Gallery